2017 Polaris Sportsman Utility Edition 4x4 ATV Low Mileage for sale
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By didgeridoo
Hello, All! I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth. I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
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By redneckred
I have a 2012 Bennche Bighorn 700X. I bought it used. It had been sitting in a field for several years untouched. I put a new sun gear in the shifter, new shifter linkage due to the old one having been patched, and a new battery (and of course fresh fuel). The machine cranked and ran beautifully. I had it over a year and then the machine quit running. As it would not stay cranked, I narrowed the problem down to a bad IAC valve. I replaced it and it ran as good as new/old. Fast forward, the machine started to act like reverse wasn't catching and would not always back up when in gear. Then forward quit. I assumed a bad CVT belt and got one. Started removing the bolts from the cover and (3) just turn in the housing without coming loose. (2) are on the bottom, so very little room to do anything with them. I tried cranking the machine again to see the belt move since I can move the cover enough to see the belt and now the machine will not crank. It turns over fine. It gets gas to the injector and has spark. I can spray cleaner down her throat and she would run until it ran out. I have replaced the IAC twice and put a new injector with no change. I went out and put the old injector back in to see if that made any difference and, well, it did. I tried to crank the machine and the starter is stuck trying to turn the machine over even with the key off. I have to disconnect the battery to stop it. Before I shoot this thing, what am I missing? Is this an ECM problem or something else I am not seeing? Been dealing with these Gremlins for over a month now and weeds are starting to overtake the motor due to it not moving. I would love to get the thing running first and any ideas of getting those CVT cover bolts out would be extremely helpful. Thanks in advance.
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By Hutch
Okay everyone, need some help here. I got my 2014 Bennche Bighorn 700 from my father inlaw. He has had it since new and as far as I know never had any problems with it until recently. It began with it being hard to start and having to give it some throttle for it to start up. Then it wouldn't stay running once it did start. If you go to start it, it will fire right off and only run for a split second and then die. If you give it some throttle it will start and stay running as long as your foot is on the pedal. While it's running its pretty rough and backfires. Here is a list of everything I've done so far. Initially I checked compression and it was low. I changed the cylinder, piston and rings. Took the head apart cleaned and laped the valves. Checked timing a few times. Adjusted the valves. New spark plug. Checked the air filter, it was fine. New battery. Changed the fuel pump because of a broken fitting. Changed the fuel filter, lines and fuel injector. Dumped the old fuel and put new in. Changed the air idle control, TPS, MAP sensor, Voltage Regulator, ECU and harness. I was getting codes 31, 107, 113 and 122 on the display. Once I changed the ECU no more codes have been displayed but still have the same issues. All fuses look good and as far as I can tell Grounds are good unless there are some I can't find. I'm at a loss here. Not really sure where to go. Compression was better after everything I did but I don't remember the numbers. I'll have to check it again if someone thinks that could be the issue. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
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