2008 Joyner 800cc Renegade stuck in 4wd
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By Alien10
Maybe all are aware of auction and equipment sales scams. On another forum, I've done some research on scam auction sites for big ag equipment and have noticed that it has spread to autos and smaller stuff in the past year or two. One was very sophisticated, including stolen IDs of known persons giving rave reviews of the auction site many going back several years to lend credence to the fake site. The site was in fact less that one month old. The business address was a storage facility with no signage with a couple being just high rise office buildings. The three I've looked into have used this three initials plus "auction.com" format or similar. "XXXauction.com". Ran across a new one 2 weeks ago in Craigslist. Had some nice cars and trucks at auction, but visiting their auction site, the all too familiar red flags were all there and despite claims of 20 years in business the site was set up first week of November 2014.
First big clue and giant red flag is the prices shown. Usually 40% of what the equipment is worth, maybe less.
Red Flags:
Prices are exceptionally low. Absurd delivery fees ie; 60 cents per mile, or $500 flat fee, anywhere in the US. Moped or Army tank, all the same. Some buttons on site do not work. Auction closes shortly. Terms of payment always requires a wire transfer, no checks, no credit cards, only wire transfers. (Once a wire transfer is sent, there is no recourse, you can't get it back or get a refund). You get invoiced with remittance bank account numbers to wire your money to. Photos are stolen from legitimate sellers or auctions. Often past sales and past auctions. Inability for you or your rep to inspect the machine. Try calling and arranging an inspection, they won't do it for dozens of reasons. These scammers award "winning bid" to literally everyone who submits a bid. They send an invoice with remittance directions. Once you wire them money you even get a receipt. Then comes days of emails back and forth to set up the so called "shipment" of your equipment. Of course that will fizzle out in a few days. By then your money is long gone offshore and you will not get it back or get anything for it.
Just think of how lucrative this scam is. Lets say a high end UTV all decked out shows on an auction closing tomorrow. Nationally, they get 67 bidders all of whom get their "winning bidder invoices" and pay by wire transfer. Lets say average of $14,000 per bidder. That's $938,000 on one fake auction UTV that no one will ever get. Do this in 10 auctions in a week, do the math!!!
I've seen agricultural combines sold this way for around $89,000 to $100,000, How many winning bidders...no one knows. But multiply that by 50 or 60 winning bidders. Get the point?
Don't fall for this stuff, it is created, dies out, then gets recreated every 30 days or so. Don't become a victim.
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By didgeridoo
Hello, All! I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth. I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
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By REDfletching
Spent today at a Honda dealership looking at their 520 side by side, then on the way home past our Lowes noticed they had several new UTVs on site, so we U-turned and ducked in there. We were impressed that all that came for $9,999 metal whole length skid plate, nice sized bed, roof, windshield, side mirrors, winch, upgrade looking tires… all of which would have added thousands of dollars to an already expensive Honda 520. Now Honda does have a great reputation from my trusted UTV experienced buddy, so it has that going for it.
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By Jerrys500
I wouldn't say that after a year of owning this thing, that I would go out and buy one again. Certainly one that was used and abused, but at the time I needed something and this was in my price range. I could tell that it would need some work. I however didn't know the half of it. This was my second UTV. The first one was and older American Sportsworks Carbide 7150 that was a total piece of junk. I got it for next to nothing and was a project piece. I got it running and rode it for a bit but it was way not what i needed and it finally burned up and was set aside. Anyways, so I bought this one from a farmer. I'm not positive of the exact model but it originally came from Tractor Supply. per the stickers on the bed and its a camo color. Upon first inspection when I got it home, it was a mess.
1. Had a water leak - The leak was in two hoses one of which was a short one that came from the rear of the engine and I literally ended up cutting it off. Well getting another one on there took hours and was simply horrible.
2. Had an oil leak - This is my concern today as I was never able to figure out for sure what it was going to take to fix it. More on that in a min once you have a full account of where i've been in this thing.
3. Had a bad clutch - Replacing the entirety of the clutch system wasn't all that bad except its a tight space to work in to do this repair. was a pain to figure out the angle that I needed to get the cover off and then back on again but figured it out the second day and got it done.
4. Had bad Universal Joints - this was a nightmare because they originally put 18mm ujoints in the thing which I was not aware of so when my parts came in of course I had the 20mm that they started putting in, from what I can understand, was the very next year. Finding the 18mm ones was all but impossible so I bit the bullet and did the full conversion to the 20's.
5. Had bad Tie Rods. - Tie rods were not a problem. However while in there I noticed that it was a little low on brake fluid. The fluid that was in there looked fresh. Sure enough there was a line leak there so i had to get new lines for it. I almost just ordered the master cylinder at that time but had seen the fluid coming from the other end and thought yeah it should be ok. That was a stupid decision. Yet another parts order to get one. Once delivered it was not a prob just replace, fill, bleed and good to go.
6. This was about the time the panic set in. I needed to check the other oils and the final gear oil was mostly empty and what was in there I'm still not was sure was gear lube. Luckily after clearing it out and refilling it, there didn't seem to be any issues with the final gear. So far that is.
7. So at this point I figured that it was ready for my first trek with it to the gold claim and off we went. This was a 14 day venture in the middle of nowhere over 300 miles from home. I had tested it over the course of 5 days and except for the oil leak it looked like all was good with the exception of blowing a little smoke. Day two in the sticks it decided to just die on us out of the blue. I checked the spark and it wasn't there anymore. The plug wire had come apart. I made one that worked until I could get a replacement. It still wouldn't start but I was getting spark. ended having to remove the fuel pump and clean it up. I then had to pull the fuel injector. I don't know why it ran when it did. It took over 4 hours of running brake parts cleaner and air through it before I could get any fuel to go through it. Luckily after that most of a day delay, I'm glad to report that it did its job rather nicely for the remainder of the trip.
8. After that ordeal and in the neighborhood of about $800 or so for parts and oils and all it looked a little brighter. I did still have not only the oil leak to fix, it started blowing more and more smoke. I keep the oil up but it uses quite a bit. if used in a whole day I'm adding at least a half quart. Its made three trips now in this described state. The only new things are that it has gotten very difficult to shift which is likely that pair of shifting gears, the blowing of smoke that is almost for sure a sign that I have to rebuild the top end including the top end kit and do the valves at the same time. Now the oil leak.
So this leak I don't quite know the part names but it is coming out from around the shaft coming from the front of the engine. My diagram does not seem to show that there is a bearing in there but I would think there has to be. So I can't order a part that doesn't seem to exist. Now the part I still can't figure out is am I going to have to pull the motor and split the case to do this repair or with the four bolts in the housing will this pop out into my hand and be a simple replacement? Of course after removing that shaft which of its own was no fun because of the requirement of almost having to remove the entire differential to get it out.
Sorry for the lengthy story but I think that it shows some of the pain of these things. I grew up riding dirt bikes, motorcycles, and three and four wheelers and I can say that none of them were ever as difficult to fix stuff as this Massimo is. Heck have done motorcycles from the frame up with modifications and it wasn't this difficult. Let me qualify that statement, I'm speaking of Kawasaki, Honda, and Suzuki motorcycles only once did ever work on a Harley and thinking about it that was horrific as well.
Thanks for any words of wisdom besides junk this crap for a 17k to 30k upgrade. Only cause I'm 5'9 and my wife of 40 plus years is 6'1 and told me that i can't have the Kawasaki Teryx 1000 that I drool over. Getting old has really curbed her desire to deal with my toys over these four decades....
Thanks for listening I look forward to and replies... Jerry
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