Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

To reduce the amount of crud that gets thrown up under the seats / battery area of the Rangers, I do some mods when doing my UK Li ion conversions. The big one is the complete change of the battery trays, these are built as part of the new battery casings and fill the floor up to the back of the seat panel. But the most annoying feature is the big gap between the side panels and the arch liners, so I add a fill strip and a top cap. You can fit a rubber flap over the join, but I find these are more prone to getting ripped off by twigs etc. These are made from a plastic thats as virtually as indestructible as polycarbonate , but easier to heat and form. And lastly I now fit a flat panel between the antiroll bar mounts and the upright. This all helps to reduce the muck getting into the battery area. I would recommend that once a year you drop the belly pan and clean out all the stuff that goes up through the pan holes. If you drive over grass a lot then lift the floor / tunnel panel and take the mess out. The holes act like a cheese grater and you can get a lot of seeds etc crammed in that space. Now looking at a top panel to cover between the cab back and the underside of the bed, but the set up will be different between the earlier and later vehicles.

DSC_0793.JPG

WP_20211022_006.jpg

WP_20211022_012.jpg

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By Gorj
      I am going to replace the batteries in my E1. I am not interested in the high cost Lithium or the expensive 6 volt dry batteries.  I am considering four 12 volt deep charge marine batteries. I have a source for 810 amp units for about $100 each.  I have no worries about reprograming the charger because it went out a few years ago and I replaced it with generic golf cart charger. When I decide to do this, I'll keep you posted on the results.
    • By FTG-05
      I want to ditch my Kubota RTV-XG850 and its moronic twitchy throttle design flaw, get rid of the problematic engine and the 40 mph purposely throttled speed.
      So far, I'm looking at the Honda Pioneer 1000 and the Polaris Ranger 1000, both of which have 1000-1500 lb payload bed capacity.
      What other makes and models should I be looking at?
       
      Thanks for the help!
    • By Grant
      I recently bought an axis 500 and it’s missing a box or something the plug is L shaped I’ve looked through the wiring diagrams and still can’t figure it out. The plug is located right near the battery housing 

    • By didgeridoo
      Hello, All!  I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
      I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth.  I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so  I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
      If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
    • By mcraigchr
      Howdy y'all,
      I have the service manual, but it leaves me with questions.
      1)  It is time to change the diff fluid.  The service manual says 80w-90 for the rear and Dextron 3 ATF for the front!  Is that correct?  That seems odd to me.
      2) The service manual also speaks of the need to change the transmission fluid but gives no detail about it.  What needs to happen here?
      3). The service manual also discusses changing the final drive fluid with 80-90 Hypoid.  Is the final drive actually the tranny?
      Any details about the changing of the fluid or what fluid to use ... or even other things that need to be changed that the manual does not mention would be appreciated.
      Thanks,
      Craig C.  
×
×
  • Create New...