Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

Finally got the new skid plate on and everything buttoned up. Took the Trooper out for a little run. I WAS FLYING! Where I use to have to gear down in the sand, just gave it more gas and she took off. That was in 2WD with NO locker engaged. A hill I use to power up a little, I decided to just crawl up. Not even a spin. I was flying across the desert running between 50 - 60 mph crashing thu the washes. I was pushing it on purpose for the first time since the new driveline and rims/tires to see what it would do or what would break. I tore the rear fenders off from maxing the travel. I thought I had cut enough of the fenders away but now there is very little fender left. I am getting it dialed in. Rear tires are good at 24 lbs and springs are great. Front tires are down to 15 lbs but I will take more out. Front springs need to be soften a little more. Could not even feel the washboard. The thing is FASTER with the high final gear ratios with the BIG tires. The powerband has lengthen and is more usable. It just keeps pulling thu the gears. First is still a creeper and I will push it more before Moab. Just Unbelievable, I am soooooo pleased! At speed, no need for power steering but creeping, would be nice.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Posted

That sounds real encouraging. When you say you can just crawl up a slope, what would you say the angle of the slope was? How is the sand your running on, is it coarse or sort of powdery fine? I'm still planning on getting 13.50 x 15 paddles. After what your saying, it will be a pretty fast sand bulldozer with big paddles. Maybe I'll start a towing business. I'll tow othger UTV up hills they can't make but wish they could. Now they will be able to say they made it. :P Where I ride in the sand most of the time is Coral Pink Sand Dunes in southwestern Utah. The sand is powdery and with the stock tires I had to be careful, I could get stuck but generally was able to make it around sorta of ok. When I ran 25" paddles, it made a huge difference and could nearly go anywhere but too small, would still dig in too much. I havn't ridden at Dumont yet but was told that the sand is coarser and staying on top is easier and climbing better.

Lenny

Posted

Coarse but I was comparing to past performance on the same sand. Closes power/blow sand is 4 hours away. Slope is about 45 degrees but it is the large ruts with boulders that makes the challenge. We have tougher hills of which I climbed a couple of weeks ago with the bigger tires, no problem. I didn't trying crawling but powered. Next time I will try to crawl, some time in the next week.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Posted

I am going to back some of the tension off the fronts. I have plenty of ground clearnce now so I can give up a little to soften the springs. Fox Shocks in the future.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Posted
The thing is FASTER with the high final gear ratios with the BIG tires. The powerband has lengthen and is more usable. It just keeps pulling thu the gears.

Rocmoc did you actually change the gearing in the diff or do you mean the change that bigger tyres gave to you?

Posted

Good on yar roc, I'm pleased it worked out and I'm sure a few Trooper owners will be following suit. Sounds awesome. Hey didn't Lenny say he was going to fabricate new fibreglass front guards? If that's the case Lenny sounds like a rear guard will be needed now. The same shape as the originals but flared up out of harms way. You never know, could be a nice little earner for you. Just a thought.

Cheers Mike.

Posted
Good on yar roc, I'm pleased it worked out and I'm sure a few Trooper owners will be following suit. Sounds awesome. Hey didn't Lenny say he was going to fabricate new fibreglass front guards? If that's the case Lenny sounds like a rear guard will be needed now. The same shape as the originals but flared up out of harms way. You never know, could be a nice little earner for you. Just a thought.

Cheers Mike.

I will be doing it hopefully this spring, I'll have my long travel suspension done 14.5" and will need them. I'll be making molds so more parts can be pulled. I have expierence in fibreglass so it will be quite simple for me. It's just a lot of body sculpuring type body work to developoe the form. Actually I'm looking forward to the project. For now, just do temporary fender clearance fixes. These fenders will not only address the clearance problem but the mud slinging problem as well. Both fronts and rears. I'll be allowing for 31" tires and 14.5" of travel.

Lenny

Posted

Just remember with the 31" tires you have to adjust the front A-arms and hammer the firewall tube a small amount to assure clearance. I will take photos. I know I owe the group a bunch of pics. Have be more concern with finishing the Trooper so I could play again.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Posted

When you adjusted the A-arms, I assume you adjusted them to move the wheel forward for firewall clearence. When I do the fenders, I will look at what frame modifications will or will not be necessary. I'm not going to stop short just to avoid having to modify a frame member. Figure if I'm going to do it, I'm going to have it be right for once and for all.

Lenny

Posted

Yes but there is not a lot of adjustment, that is why you have to make the final adjustment to the lower firewall tubing. My post of my tire installed talked about how much adjustment I was able to get out of my Trooper. While there are a lot of threads in the helm, Joyner did not allow for moving the A-arm for ANY adjustment.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Posted

rocmoc, I'll be looking for your input when I begin designing.

Thanks

Lenny

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Topics

    • By Nutcase
      I have a Joyner Trooper 1100 4 place that has been sitting for a number of years. I have everything taken care of but i can't get the fuel through the injectors. Fuel pump puts full pressure on them but they don't turn on or spray fuel. Any ideas?
    • By Ductking1
      I recently purchased a 2024 Hisun 550 Sector from Kreps Service Station and am having issues with the gear selector, I am doing as instructed in the owners manual but the shifter acts like it is binding or the button lock isn't releasing, the shifter will not move, I have to wiggle it back and forth while pushing hard on the brake and if it's in park or reverse it's nearly impossible to get it to move, I contacted Justin Krep and he says this is normal with these machines, I find that hard to believe, I've owned many utvs and side x sides and have never had this kind of issue with any of them, any help with this problem would be greatly appreciated.
    • By Frank in MI
      Thanks for accepting me!
      Haven't got a side by side yet, but have been shopping.   
      Any advice welcome & I am on a limited budget, so haven't decided yet on new or used.
       
    • By Poppateets
      I just purchased a used 2023 Massimo warrior UTV SxS 1000mx with 600 miles on it. I didn't even get a full day of riding and the driver's side rear axle broke. I'm pretty sure it was already going bad because we would hear a noise once in a while. I'm wondering if anyone else has had problems with theirs. Also looking for places to buy accessories.
    • By Justine
      I've had a Hisun Vector E1 for just a bit longer than is required for me to do some maintenance. While it's well-overdue, it only drives 1.5km a few times each week on a fairly decent gravel road (to the letterbox), and it has worked really well right from the get-go.
      Looking at the manual it states that I need to use SAE80 API GL-4 Hypoid Gear Oil for the Main gear Case, and SAE80 API GL-5 Hypoid Gear Oil for the Front gear Case - unfortunately i can't find either of those online here in Australia. Plenty of options that look close, but, as someone who has never driven any vehicle before, I want to use the right thing and it's a tad confusing.
      My question: Since there are no oils that are bang on SAE80 (they all seem to cover a range) would Liqui Moly Hypoid GL4 Gear Oil 80W-90  & Motorex Hypoid GL-5 Gear Oil 80W90 - be ok to use? (Or any other suggestions of what I might be able to purchase online in Australia) And would I have to drain out any existing oil from both gear cases?
      This is a whole new world for me and  being able to find exactly what is specified in the manual hasn't made this easy!
×
×
  • Create New...