Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

My helms & poly bushings are squeaking endlessly. I sprayed some penetrating oil on them for temp relief but it comes back quickly. Anyone else squeaking? Any solutions? Maybe its because we are so dry here.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Posted

Yes i squeak after my 100km ride in the bush and also it is very dry here, I havent looked into it but it sounds like its coming from the rear swing arms.

I was hoping that when I gave the trooper her first service it would go away. Very annoying isnt it, i hate and rattles or out of place noises.

Posted

There are a number of points to add greese fittings that help dried out joints. All ball joints in front , steering box, rear main trailing arm pivot points, rear to axel spindle assembly pivots, and of coarse hinge points like rear deck hinge bar and sleeves should be oiled now and then. Another thing I did was to seal my front A-arms heims joints to keep out dirt and keep in greese.

Refer to these past threads:

Front ball joints need checking.

Lube rack and pinion steering.

Front axel axel ball joints, adding grese fittings.

rear suspension arm and hub pivot points.

rocmoc, I suspect you have done most if not all of these things. I also took my pedal assembly apart and added poly bushings which got rid of squeaks and rattles.

Lenny

Posted

Turn up your speakers and listen to this rattle from hell.

I thought it was my left swing arm or my left rear shock spring stopper which I pulled apart but turned out to be a metal tab that's used to hold lines or wiring hard up against a metal panel.

Cheers Mike.

Posted

I guess if you know it's there it stands out more. You can hear it quite clear between 27 - 32 sec., 37 - 39 sec., 55 - 1.25 sec., 2.01 - 2.07 sec., 2.21 - 2.30 sec. and 2.40 - 2.42 sec. If you can be bothered. It's not that entertaining but if the noise does sound familiar, that could be your fix by just pulling the tab away from the offending metal plate.

Cheers Mike.

Posted
My trailing arms have zerk fittings for the front pivot bushings

An upgrade of the newer machines. I don't have any grease fittings and have not found any holes to add some. I will scrape some paint as recommended and see if I can find something hidden. Remember I have one of the first 50 Troopers.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Posted
An upgrade of the newer machines. I don't have any grease fittings and have not found any holes to add some. I will scrape some paint as recommended and see if I can find something hidden. Remember I have one of the first 50 Troopers.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Well its stupid they placed the zerks on the bottom of the bushing, great place for something th fly up and hit it. I think if you install them you should install them on the top side

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Althought it's a little late to add a comment I'll go ahead anyway. My T-4 Trooper developed squeaks right after purchase. I'd spray silicone on the shocks and mounting locations, grease the trailing arms, anything I could think of. After about a week of this nonsense, it finally dawned on me , at least in my case, that the spring preload was set too tight and that the spring coils were rubbing together combining with the dust and making all the noise. Just turned them back about two turns and the noise was gone forever. Hope this help someone.

Dennis

Posted
Althought it's a little late to add a comment I'll go ahead anyway. My T-4 Trooper developed squeaks right after purchase. I'd spray silicone on the shocks and mounting locations, grease the trailing arms, anything I could think of. After about a week of this nonsense, it finally dawned on me , at least in my case, that the spring preload was set too tight and that the spring coils were rubbing together combining with the dust and making all the noise. Just turned them back about two turns and the noise was gone forever. Hope this help someone.

Dennis

which springs? front or rear or both?

Posted

Only on the rears. All the noise disappeared after turning the adjusters back about two turns. If you look at the springs the coils are turned down too tight and after a while I think the paint between them rubs away and then your left with metal to metal contact.

Even after eliminating the noise problem I still wasn't happy with the ride in Arizona terrain, so I broke down and purchased a set of King shocks, no comparison, what a difference, a little pricy but worth every penny. Now I've just got to get rid of those stock tires, maybe some radials?

Posted
Even after eliminating the noise problem I still wasn't happy with the ride in Arizona terrain, so I broke down and purchased a set of King shocks, no comparison, what a difference, a little pricy but worth every penny. Now I've just got to get rid of those stock tires, maybe some radials?

Thanks and may I suggest General Grabber AT2, I think mine are great.2235465430104282158ydwhSe_th.jpg

Posted
Only on the rears. All the noise disappeared after turning the adjusters back about two turns. If you look at the springs the coils are turned down too tight and after a while I think the paint between them rubs away and then your left with metal to metal contact.

Even after eliminating the noise problem I still wasn't happy with the ride in Arizona terrain, so I broke down and purchased a set of King shocks, no comparison, what a difference, a little pricy but worth every penny. Now I've just got to get rid of those stock tires, maybe some radials?

Please share the spec info on your shocks!

Thanks,

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico/CA

Posted

The shocks specifically for T-4 or T-2 can be purchased thru McCoy Motorsports or Buggy World. Although Buggy World is a little more expensive, that's where mine were purchased. They're about 150 miles from my primary residence so I drove down and picked them up, you know a bird in the hand and all that. Also, I thought that Buggy World would have more experience in the desert, where I ride, as opposed to McCoy who is located somewhere in the southeast. Little different terrain.

As for the specifications, I think these guys are trying to keep it a secret because I contacted other King dealers with no luck. If you like I can read the info off the shock and get back to you when I return to Arizona sometime next week.

Bye the way I've lurked around the site for a while and have really gotten some good info from you guys. You know, I had to go out and purchase replacement shocks to get a decent ride and you guys are making them. But I've got to admit mine rides like a Cadallic now.

  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Topics

    • By Alien10
      I have a Coleman Outfitter 550 purchased in January 2022 that runs and operates pretty well.  65 hours on it so far.   It is a work vehicle for my 10 hilly acres with two 1 acre woods and 5 acres of "lawn".  The rest is under a lake. 
      My parking brake does not seem to have any grip.  It worked when new but after a month or so, it is just almost useless.     I press the parking brake pedal hard until it stops. Still, it won't hold even on slight inclines.   I don't see the caliper move as I press the brake pedal down.  There seems to be plenty of pad left on it and the rotor is shiny as if it is rubbing a little when applied, but not enough to stop it from rolling. 
      Any thoughts on possible causes? 
       
    • By BMurph
      Hello everyone! I am new here and have no experience with UTVs but I am quickly getting some. I have a shifting problem where I can shift through all gears without the engine running but as soon as I start the engine I can not select a gear. Yes, foot is on the brake and yes the pin is being pulled to go into reverse if I was to try going into reverse. The shift lever does not move. I adjusted the linkage to get more accurate shifting with the engine off so I know those are now correct. I opened the shift lever housing to inspect the teeth on the gear and found this picture below. Why is this oil so milky looking? I assume with oil like this I'll need to replace the wet clutch as well but am not positive. Does anyone have any input into how to flush this system and get things shifting correctly? Thanks in advance for all the help!

    • By BMurph
      Hi everyone. I am new here to the forum and am excited to learn from all of you with more experience than me with UTVs. Our Axis750 we use on the hobby farm started to have some issues going into gear. Yes, foot is on the brake and completely stopped as required with these machines. I thought it was the linkage and adjusted it to where it is accurately shifting with the engine off and key in the on position. I start the engine and it won't shift gears (yes foot is on the brake). I thought maybe it was the shift lever teeth so I opened the assembly and this picture shows what I just found. I assume this means the wet clutch would need replaced too while draining and flushing the oil. What else should I consider or be looking at? Any idea what could cause this? I don't see visible leaks or cracks in the system anywhere. Thanks in advance for the help!
       
       

    • Get More For Your Device
    • By didgeridoo
      Hello, All!  I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
      I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth.  I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so  I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
      If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...