Quantcast
Jump to content


2009 Yamaha Rhino 700FI no 4x4 or diff lock

pchow

By pchow
in Yamaha UTV SxS Forum

 Share

Recommended Posts

pchow Newbie

pchow

Posted
Posted

This just started happening a few rides ago. 4x4 and full lock were working fine. Now it won't go into 4x4 or lock. Took the servo motor off and it turns and operates just fine when I press the 4x4 button and lock button so I know its not that. Been doing some research and people seem to be saying that the slider (picture with red arrow pointing to it) should be all the way to the right for 2 wheel drive, middle for 4x4 and all the way left for locked. I tried pushing it to the left and it won't move any farther than what you can see in the picture. Seems like it's hitting something. It'll move all the way to the right, but I can only move it about 1/4" to the left (where it is in the pic now). Been trying to find an exploded view of the front diff with no luck. The Yamaha parts diagrams don't even show this slider as a part (diagram I have attached).

Couple of questions. Anyone have an exploded diagram of what the front diff parts should look like for a 2009 Rhino 700 FI
Special Edition? Some people say there should be a "fork" that the slider moves but I can't see that on the parts diagram either. Is my pic with the blue line pointing to the fork? Anyone with any ideas? Would like to get my 4x4 working again so I can do some snow wheeling soon.

 

IMG_9746 copy.jpg

front diff.JPG

IMG_9750_LI.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites
kenfain Experienced

kenfain

Posted
Posted

TBH, I'm not the best when it comes to schematics. But the exploded diagram, doesn't look like the same component as the pictures. I don't see that bar, or any of the arrowed items at all, in the exploded version. I'm wondering if it's the correct diagram. It appears to be a front diff.

Looks like some scarring on the right side of that gear in the first picture though. But I could easily be mistaken. 

Gearing always just works till it doesn't. Seals, and bearings, pins, and keepers of all sorts are used, and sometimes fail. When something has come out of place, and blocks something else. There's usually not any remedy short of major surgery. 

With the price of parts, and the labor involved. Have you considered looking into a salvage replacement rear end?

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
mfendley Apprentice

mfendley

Posted
Posted

I think this is all referring to the front differential; my understanding is that the rear is always engaged, and that 2 wheel, 4 wheel, and 4 wheel locked is all done in the front differential.

I don't see that piece in the parts diagram, but I understand the resistance to move the slider to the left. Many times, the 4WD locked command is sent, and the indicator will flash, but it takes some rotation of the left and right wheels at different rates to allow everything to line up so that the servo can lock the differential and the indicator shows locked.

Keep one of your front wheels on the ground and jack up the other so that you can rotate it slowly until you are able to move the slider over fully.

Understand that if you are able to do that, and the servo is working properly, this won't answer why you aren't able to go into 4 wheel drive, or lock your differential.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
mfendley Apprentice

mfendley

Posted
Posted

I think this diagram is better. When you lock the differential, the servo motor turns, engages the teeth on part #7, slides it to the left in your picture, or right in the picture below, riding on rod #6, so that the forks on #7 that engage on part #11 cause it to move to the right in the picture below and engage inside part #9, locking the differential.

image.png.cc4e9ee6b07b98024f07084197f8c123.png

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
pchow Newbie

pchow

Posted
  • Author
Posted
5 hours ago, mfendley said:

I think this diagram is better. When you lock the differential, the servo motor turns, engages the teeth on part #7, slides it to the left in your picture, or right in the picture below, riding on rod #6, so that the forks on #7 that engage on part #11 cause it to move to the right in the picture below and engage inside part #9, locking the differential.

image.png.cc4e9ee6b07b98024f07084197f8c123.png

Thanks so much. This is the diagram I’ve been looking for. Where did you find it? I’ve looked at so many different manuals and haven’t been able to find the right one. It definitely looks like this. I’ll try your idea with keeping one tire on the ground and turning the other one. My servo motor and switch work fine. I pulled the motor off and can push the button and it turns properly. It’s just the slider part #7 that’s not moving enough to the left. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 1 month later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Similar Topics

    • diamondjfarm
      Good mornin' all. Just joined.
      By diamondjfarm
      I got an old 2003 Arctic Cat 375 Auto, and just bought a 2008 AC 650 side by side. Got a new starter, solenoid, and battery for the 650. Gonna change the crankcase oil and filter while I'm at it.
      Anything I oughta watch out for from them that's done the starter/solenoid on this model?
      Don't have a manual yet for the 650. Any recommendations for oil weight/grade?
      Thanks.
    • dave pasch
      4x4 electric transfer case 37ac466d710 cub cadet suv
      By dave pasch
      Has anyone trouble shooted this transfer case? Full 12v to switch and case. No action inside case.
       
      Thanks Dave
    • FGT
      How to wire a C/B into a dual battery set up
      By FGT
      QUESTION: How to wire the C/B into this current dual battery set up.

      EXISTING SITUATION: MAIN Battery is OEM and feeds OEM circuits. Added an AUX Battery in the OEM dual battery location. Connected the AUX - terminal to the MAIN - terminal. Connected the 100A Accessory Fuse Block power cable to the AUX + terminal. Installed a smart isolator between AUX and MAIN batteries where a cable from AUX + goes to the isolator and a cable from isolator to MAIN battery + terminal. Installed separate QD battery tender cables to both AUX and MAIN batteries + and -. The dual battery system appears to work as intended. For this Phase 1 improvement, to avoid having to constantly pull the leads on the AUX + battery post off and put on, for testing or maintenance of Accessory circuits, I wanted a more convenient and safer way to open the circuit from the AUX battery + terminal the Accessory Fuse Block. I called an off road dealership and was told to install a much larger capacity circuit breaker than the 100A rated Fuse Block and was recommended to get a 250A C/B like the one in the pic, which I did. I was told the reason for the C/B high amp rating was two-fold (a) to trip in the event of a battery short circuit and (b) to be able to conveniently open the C/B to kill power to the Accessory Fuse Block without removing leads from the AUX + terminal. The 250A C/B has two posts labelled "BAT LOAD" and "BAT LINE". There are currently three connections to the AUX + post: (1) Accessory Fuse Block power cable, (2) cable to Isolator AUX in terminal, (3) cable from AUX battery charger.


    • Alex
      18% off CFMOTO Accessories with code AFZ18 in August
      By Alex
      Explore Kemimoto's CFMOTO accessories collection that will elevate your riding experience. From protective gear to performance upgrades, they offer everything you need to customize and optimize your CFMOTO vehicle. Kemimoto has bags, boxes, bumpers, covers, camera mounts, cup holders, doors, and more! Outfit your CFMOTO today!
      18% off with code AFZ18 in August

    • Buck
      750 will not shift into gears
      By Buck
      My father-in-laws 750 hisun will not change gears unless he completely turns the motor off then shifts.  I thought it might be a brake problem but he thought clutch.  He took it to a jackleg down the road and he basically charged him $300 and did not fix a thing.  Any ideas would be useful because he really can’t afford throwing money at it.

UTV FORUMS

MORE SECTIONS

FOLLOW US ON

GET IN TOUCH

  • Automotive Webmaster
×
×
  • Create New...