Quantcast
Jump to content


2012 Landmaster LM650 Slipping out of gear


Go to solution Solved by Travis,

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hey everyone, I bought a 2012 LM650 with a Subaru V twin it runs pretty good once it’s warm however I am having trouble getting it into gear and when going down hill it slips out of gear. Any ideas on how to fix this?

  • Alex changed the title to 2012 Landmaster LM650 Slipping out of gear
  • Solution
Posted

I would remove the shift linkage, and put in gear by hand/manually, if possible, and drive it... if it still jumps out of gear, i would suspect a trans issue. If not, most likely the shift linkage needs adjusted to compensate for wear, as it's not fully engaging F or R

  • Like 1

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By Homeowner A
      I was randomly and briefly able to connect to my Coleman UTV 400s ECU the other day twice and haven't been able to since.  When I was able to access it, I found the following codes and wondered if anyone may know where I should start or what I should look at?  
      P0031 - O2 Sensor Heater Control Voltage Low
      P0107 - Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometer Pressure Voltage Low
      P0113 - Intake Air Temperature Sensor Voltage High
      P0118 - Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Voltage High
      P0650 - Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) failure
       
    • By CapnWalleye
      Just picked up a Cub Cadet 500 that had shift issues (corroded fan gear) which I fixed. It also didn't seem to be running smoothly then all of a sudden it got worse. It seems to miss on both idle and when pushing the gas pedal to the floor and doesn't seem to be running at full power. I've been working with a local person who is walking me through some steps, but I'd like some input from this group as well. What I've done:
      - drained the fuel tank and replaced it with 93 octane fuel and added heet to help with any water problems.
      - replaced the fuel injector.
      - disconnected the battery (several times) to allow the module to reset.
      - set the valve clearance, both intake and exhaust, within specs ... intake was tight but exhaust seemed fine.
      - replaced the battery.
      - replaced the O2 sensor.
      Nothing has helped. Not sure what the next steps are, but would appreciate any expertise that can be offered here.
       
    • By CapnWalleye
      Just picked up a Hisun 500 that had shift issues (corroded fan gear) which I fixed. It also didn't seem to be running smoothly then all of a sudden it got worse. It seems to miss on both idle and when pushing the gas pedal to the floor and doesn't seem to be running at full power. I've been working with a local person who is walking me through some steps, but I'd like some input from this group as well. What I've done:
      - drained the fuel tank and replaced it with 93 octane fuel and added heet to help with any water problems.
      - replaced the fuel injector.
      - disconnected the battery (several times) to allow the module to reset.
      - set the valve clearance, both intake and exhaust, within specs ... intake was tight but exhaust seemed fine.
      - replaced the battery.
      - replaced the O2 sensor.
      Nothing has helped. Not sure what the next steps are, but would appreciate any expertise that can be offered here.
       
    • By rdborra
      I had to remove the relay for the dump bed due to it popping the fuse for main key power. I have tried to find a short but nothing seems to out of normal. I also disconnected the dump motor and switch and still pops the fuse. Also, when the machine is warmed up i get about 5 to 10 of work out of before it stalls. Once I can get it to start again I have to use the choke to keep it running. 
    • By didgeridoo
      Hello, All!  I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
      I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth.  I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so  I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
      If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...