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By Prepper
I'm working with a 2015 MSU-500. Basic symptoms are it cranks well, but will not fire. It has spark, and it has fuel spraying out of the injector (and spraying starting fluid into the throttle body and plug hole makes no difference). It has compression. I bought it not running, and no other information was available. It has 775 miles on it and 127 hours. It looks to be in very good shape. Previous owner replaced fuel pump, ECU, coil, plug, and the fuse/relay box that mounts on the firewall, then gave up.
My questions relate to cam/valve timing, considering the symptoms and diagnostics so far. My thinking was the woodruff key sheared off and the crank spun, making it out of time. My question is, by the pictures attached does anyone have an opinion as to the cam/valve timing being correct? In the crankshaft picture you can see a timing mark visible. In the camshaft picture I have arrows directed towards what I think are timing marks (which appear to be exactly 180 degrees from one another). However, the long arrow in what appears to be bolt configuration in line with the piston/rod line. Here is a puzzling note... in the position you see in the pictures... I have valve lash on both the intake and exhaust. I think it's at TDC, given the visible crank timing mark and valve lash on both valves.
Any thoughts ? Does this appear to be in proper valve time ? Have I missed anything simple ? Thanks in advance for your input.
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By Homeowner A
Have a bed decal that has never been right. Contacted Coleman Powersports and they have no solution. Anyone know of a place where I could get a replacement decal or complete decal or graphics kit?
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By Ken rung
Does Anyone by chance have a owners manual and a shop manual for a 2007 800cc trooper. I just bought one and need to figure out where and how to engage and disengage the 4 wheel drive. Is it electronic or is there a hidden lever. PLEASE HELP
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By rocmoc
This is rocmoc/Michael one of the first on this forum when the Joyner was one of the most active topics. First an update of others. The earlier members will also remember Lenny and Jeff. With myself we organized the first Jamborees in 2009-2012. Sadly if you have not heard we lost both Lenny and Jeff in 2018. A great loss to the community. Myself: Still around but rolled over to Jeep and Arctic Cat Wildcat. The Wildcat design still remains me of my old 2008 Trooper. Doing well as the Last Man Standing but cleaning out the garage. Found some New and used Trooper parts I will list in the parts section. Wanted to give you all a chance before I list on Ebay. As many of you knew Lenny listed a lot of stuff on Ebay. Will I partnered a lot of the stuff with him and I still have stuff. Take care and I will check in for message should you want to ride. Still make it to Utah every other year and am still in Southern AZ.
rocmoc in AZ/Mexico
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By didgeridoo
Hello, All! I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth. I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
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