Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

Hey all!

Uncle's got a Massimo MSU 500 that he's been having some trouble with and I've been trying to help him out. He bought it used from some guy and I don't think it was in the greatest shape when he got it. The only thing he's done to it is add his Army Air Cav and Vietnam stickers to it. 

Started off saying it would shift really hard when setting off. Found the dipstick and it was low! So did an oil, air filter, oil filter and spark plug change for him today and it's setting off 1000 times better now. However, it's almost impossible to shift the gear lever. We still had the engine cowl off and I was having to tap the lever on the engine end with a hammer to get it to shift. I don't think it's because of how hard he was pushing the brakes because he seemed to be pushing pretty hard. Got it loosened up a little but still really difficult to get it to move between H L and R. 

There is what looks like a flashing front diff on the panel when it's running, and a noise coming from the front diff/axle but I don't know if that has something to do with it. 

Uncle ordered the tune up kit from Dr Motorcycle and he included gear oil, but can't for the life of us figure out where we check this and where it needs to be changed. I've read somewhere that we need to check the diff levels, but that wouldn't make a difference in how it shifts would it?

Any and all help welcome as I'd like to get Uncle's side by side running again and allow him to get about his property again. 

Posted

On my Hisun HS500 the flashing light on the dash panel means its in 4 wheel drive. You have to make sure your diff isn't in the lock position also.

Sorry can't help with the hard shift.   Mine shifted hard into low until I adjusted it.

Posted

1st. You should always be stopped with your foot on the brake in order to shift these things. Mine has an interlock that will do just as you are describing. 2nd, I don't think they like to cold shifted without the engine running and your foot on the brake. Also, on occasion, I have to coax mine up into low gear and hold it until I'm moving. I've played with the linkage adjustment several times and got it where it shifts good enough for me. I bought mine new (2017) and it has never been 100% in that area.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Topics

    • By SouthernGypsy
      We have a 2018 Cub Cadet Challenger 400 and I found this Internally Threaded Bolt with a 10mm head size laying in the floor of the shop bay here on our ranch where we park the Cub Cadet.
      Trying to figure out where it belongs...
       




    • By NC4wd
      Has anyone found a lift kit that fits an Axis 500? Mine is a 2021.
    • By JOSEPH LAMAR
      I have a 2020 axis 500 and I have replaced the TPS twice and the whole throttle body assembly once and still have code 122. I can barely drive the thing. It bucks and surges like crazy
    • By Greg Kilgore
      Last year bought a small universal coolant style cab heater. Well I installed it today. Thanks to another member, RangeRider45, and his install
       
      That told in his post the size fitting he used. I got the same fittings plus a few others. And all went kinda smooth. Took a few minutes to get air purged from coolant system. Should have parked on hill with front up in the air. But would have had a hard time working on it.
      I had a variable power switch connected to an overhead cab fan. Never really used the fan that much. And I have to remove the fan to put on my cab enclosure anyway. So I repurposed the switch to supply power for the heater. The heater has 2 12-volt DC computer fans that are rated for 1.8 amps each. So it's not going to be a big drain on the weak charging system. And with the switch I've got great control over the speed of the fans.
      If anyone is interested the radiator hoses are 7/8 inch. I reworked the temperature sending unit (moved it closer to radiator) to make room for all the extra plumbing I did to get the heater to work the way I wanted. 
      Plumbing parts list.
      10-15 worm water clamps. 3/4 to 1 1/4 inch size.
      2 1" x 3/4" x 1" PEX Tee
      1 3/4" PEX ball valve
      1 1" PEX ball valve
      5/8" heater hose. I got 6' and probably have 4' left over.
      I used the radiator house I cut out to use as splices between the PEX fittings. The PEX fittings are not true to their dimensions that are stated on the package. So they fit the 5/8" and 7/8" very nicely.
      They way I have it plumbed is from radiation out side. A tee, then the 1" ball valve, then a Tee. Coming off the Tees are the hoses going to the heater core. There is a 3/4" ball valve on one of the Tees. The ball valves are used to bypass the heater core in the summer. Or direct the hot coolant through the heater core in winter. The temperature sending unit tells me how hot the coolant is. And if anything is getting too hot. The dash also has an idiot light that comes on if the head gets too hot. But doesn't do anything if the radiator gets too hot. There is a temp sensor on the radiator that controls the electrical fan. But if the coolant isn't circulating. That switch never sends a signal to turn on the fan. But enough talking/rambling. Everyone wants to see pics. The only thing I need to change is the orientation of the handle on the 1" ball valve. I have 2" or more clearance between the handle and the tire when cut hard right. But I still don't like it. And instead of taking the valve out and rotating 180°. I'm just going to take the nut off and rotate the handle 180°. Think I need to make a locking mechanism to lock the handles in place so they don't vibrate closed when the machine is moving.
      The temperature sending unit and housing. Size 22 mm. Aluminum from Amazon.

      Upper Tee the lower Tee is identical. Can also see the handle of the 3/4" ball valve on the 5/8" hose going to the heater.

      The 1" ball valve. Goes between the 2 Tees

      Wide view of the plumbing.

      The heater installed in the sxs. The 3 black hoses are just hanging there. Zip ties to the heater but not attached to any thing. Will probably just direct 2 toward the wife's feet. And 1 toward mine. Or what ever is need as the heat is needed on rides. The black hose in passenger floorboard is some 1" hose that is not needed. Don't know what I'll do with it.

       
      I think if I was going to do it again. I'd put some Indian Head gasket dressing or silicone on the 1" side of the PEX fittings. And I may still do that. But I really hate the ideal of introducing air back in the coolant system.
       
      Any questions just ask. It may take a while to answer. But I'll try.
      Ya be good and stay warm over the next few months 
       
      Kilgore.
    • By Texjpr
      2002 ranger 500 4x4 stopped running and wouldn't restart. Service manual wiring diagram helped identify the hub safety switch as the culprit. Using jumper wires to bypass  switch allowed the engine to start and run normally. Inspection of switch showed melted epoxy and a strong smell of burnt electrical. Unable to find replacement part either used or new. Is there a work around other than jumper wiring?
×
×
  • Create New...