Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

I have had a battery failure with one of my batteries, maybe another coming soon and have decided to  change all 8 out to US Battery XC1800's. Just to make sure I have the correct connections, can anyone post a few pictures of the battery connections and email me a copy?

Just an FYI, the Dual Pro Eagle Performance onboard charger quit. I am not sure, at this point, whether it is the charger that has failed, or the bad battery causing a low voltage failure.  This low voltage will cause the charger not to start, even though it may be still working. (2020 models and above have a different charger). The charger is back with DualPro awaiting a dignosis.  If you need to remove the charger, to send back to DualPro, you will need to remove the electrical input port on the passenger side, and the output to the batteries. Then, remove a good number of black zip ties to free both cords.  The charger itself is held on by 6 machine screws, 3 on each side of the brackets. Be careful, the charger weighs 27 lbs! The whole unit, including the cords needs to be sent back.  The connections are soldered inside the charger  and cannot be disconnected.

Thanks,

Graham  ([email protected])

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

So, I finally chose to go back with flooded Trojan 605s. The extra cost and untested gamble with LiFePOP4 was not feasible. I was quoted $3k for a set of three Relion 48v LiFEPO4s and ended up getting 8 x 6v TRojan 605s for around $1400. The reinstall was arduous, with each battery weighing in around 70 lbs. In addition, fiddling around in and under the vehicle to reinstall the battery brackets was a PITA. However, the final result was that I have my wonderful EV Intimidator back up and running to full capacity. 

On a side note, I aslo had to send in my DualPro charger for refurbishment. The circuit board was corroded. DP repaired it but charged me $157 because they said that corrosion was not covered under their 3 month warranty. My point is that the casing should be waterproofed and, in future designs, they may wan to not have the circuit board at the very top of the charger and horizontal.  Even a slight angle may have let an water or condensation run off.

 

With regards to LiFePO4, I did get some excellent information from tech service at Relion. I was told that the Intimidator EV should use 3 x 48V Relions (Insight) in parallel, and would need a CAN terminal resistor and a one-button shut off. Both of which can be bought from Relion. If you do not use the on-button shut off switch you can either wait for the batteries to time out and shgut themselves off, or remove the seat and shut them off manually (not recommended as all 3 need to be shut of simultaneously, which is difficult to do with 3 batteries and two hands! - shutting two off, will probaly result in the third switching them back on again).  Also, there is no need for a key in this situation. This could have security issues. 

For those needing any help with battery wiring, I have added some photos of my new set up.

IMG_5365.JPG

IMG_5366.JPG

IMG_5367.JPG

IMG_5368.JPG

IMG_5369.JPG

IMG_5370.JPG

IMG_5371.JPG

  • 9 months later...
Posted

Hi Graham  I thinking about buying an Intimidator EV.  I'm on HI with no dealer support. 

I also talked to HuntVE they do not have a dealer but said they want their products out there so they would work with me for support.   

 

What do you think I really like the Intimidator better but wondering about the dependability with no support try to problem solve myself.   Any Thoughts .

 

Mark

Posted

Mark,

 

There is no major maintenance, other than keeping your batteries topped of with distilled water and maintaining a charge.  Not limited to the Intimidator, if you have one battery go bad, you will have to change all eight of them (ask me how I know!) Grease here and there and you're golden. It's been a workhorse for me. Much better than the Polaris EV I had before it. The decal stickers will come off!.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By didgeridoo
      Hello, All!  I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
      I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth.  I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so  I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
      If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
    • By Bloodhound
      Don't know the size anyone know the reliability fo theae
    • By CRV
      I’m need a couple parts. Diff. Lock Actuator mainly. But I would like to find a donor that maybe has bad motor or something along those lines. 
      if anyone has or knows of anything please holler at me 
      thanks Randy 
    • By SpaceGhost
      As with any forum you join, there is a requirement for an obligatory introduction... and that seems fair. How else do you get that first post in there without jumping in with some stupid question right out of nowhere?

      Hi. I'm Space Ghost. Well, not really, but that was my call sign on my last deployment before an IED made me non-deployable, and I an now retired/disabled, and living on my wonderful VA disability. I did almost 28 years in total between the Army, Army Reserve, and National Guard. 1 deployment with the Reserve (Desert Storm) and 3 with the Guard (1 pre, and 2 post 9/11)

      Married (going on 30 years) one of each. (both out of the nest)

      My vehicle is (at least not yet) not a UTV, however, it is an ATV, A 2001 Kawasaki Prairie 400.
       

       
      BTW, That's Brandy, my former PTS/TBI service dog on the bike. RIP old girl. She's internet famous. Perhaps you've seen her before...
       

       
      The reason I'm here is that Arthritis is starting to set into my wounds and my mobility is getting worse. I will be selling the quad bike soon, and going with a SXS, and have selected a Can Am model as the replacement, so I figured I had better get on board a forum somewhere. Just put in for my Guard retirement, and will be very soon looking to get into a Commander 6x6.

      Wouldn't mind having the Limited with the Hvac system, but am really not sure it's worth the extra 10 grand or not. Plus it's 500 pounds heavier, and I prefer the doors off in nice weather. It's so much easier when working in the yard, and so much more fun when on the trail.

      Anyway, I'm here now, so it will help me research more and make up my mind. Plus once I have it, I'll be able to share stories about it and of course, continue to learn more, as it will be my 1st sxs. Still have time before I get my retirement. Takes a good 90 days at least according to the guy I talked to... Typical government efficiency... lol.
       
    • By Rainman
      I want to put a charger/maintainer for my Coleman UT400 for the winter and need to know if it uses a 6v or 12v battery.
      One search online showed a 6v, but another stated 12v..
      I can look at the battery, but after taking the seat out you cannot see the top of the battery without also removing the top plate under the seat and at 8 degrees outside, I'd rather not be out there too long.
      Can anyone verify what volt (6 or 12) the batter is?
      Thanks in advance ...
×
×
  • Create New...