Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

So my Coleman since the day we got it has this annoying squeaking sound when moving along slowly ,  its sounds like it 's in the front and the back, but not sure if its just the sound carry along the botton. If you apply the breaks  it gets louder, go up to speed and the noise goes away. It sounds like the breaks , but I can't see anything., its metal on metal sound, I'm  just clueless as to what or where. Has anyone else had this issue?  if so do you have a fix. If not does anyone now what it is?  I'm trying to load a video, if successful , you can hear the sound, along with my comment that's it the breaks, but I really have no idea, The important thing is you'll be able to hear the sound , I would appreciate any advice or guidance on the fix.  Thanks

Posted

Drum brakes i'm assuming?

jack up the rear end (and take it out of 4WD if equipped) and see if it makes the noise with the rear end off the ground. if it does then its probably your rear brakes making the noise.

how long ago did you buy the machine?

  • Like 1
Posted

There are actually 5 disc brakes on these machines. 1 for each wheel and 1 on the rear driveshaft for the parking brake.

I've read several complaints of the parking brake one being too tight from the factory so I would check the cable and make sure there's a little slack when the parking brake is released.

If that is good I would jack up each corner Individually and spin the wheel to listen for noise and feel for dragging. That should help pinpoint where the issue is.

  • Like 3
Posted
14 hours ago, Travis said:

Drum brakes i'm assuming?

jack up the rear end (and take it out of 4WD if equipped) and see if it makes the noise with the rear end off the ground. if it does then its probably your rear brakes making the noise.

how long ago did you buy the machine?

Thanks for the response!!   The machine is still new , we have about 6 miles on her. We bought her to take out to the lake  last year, finally got around to it .

Posted
13 hours ago, aefron88 said:

There are actually 5 disc brakes on these machines. 1 for each wheel and 1 on the rear driveshaft for the parking brake.

I've read several complaints of the parking brake one being too tight from the factory so I would check the cable and make sure there's a little slack when the parking brake is released.

If that is good I would jack up each corner Individually and spin the wheel to listen for noise and feel for dragging. That should help pinpoint where the issue is.

Thanks, next time we are at the lake I'll check this out....appreciate the response.

Posted

I had Front left brake squeak. Removed wheel to investigate and found hub nut loose. Torqued to specs as close as I could, and that seems to have cured brake squeak problem.

Loose Hub Nut.jpg

  • Like 2
Posted
5 hours ago, Robert B said:

I had Front left brake squeak. Removed wheel to investigate and found hub nut loose. Torqued to specs as close as I could, and that seems to have cured brake squeak problem.

Loose Hub Nut.jpg

Good stuff .....thank you!

Posted

I was under the rig playing today so I decided to adjust the parking brake just to make sure it was ok, since I've read a couple people having them adjusted too tight from the factory.

First picture is the parking brake disc & caliper from the passenger side. Second picture is the adjustment bolt.

How it works: it's a cable operated disc brake with a locking pawl to hold it where you push the pedal to.

Procedure: The pad tightness is adjusted by moving the bolt in the 2nd picture in and out. When you tighten it it pushes the pads together. The extra nut on it is a lock nut.

Using a 13mm wrench loosen the lock nut. Back it off about halfway just so it's out of the way. Next tighten the bolt by hand until it stops. From there back it off about a half turn. Push the parking brake and make sure the pedal "locks up" before running out of travel. If it doesn't adjust the bolt slightly tighter and try it again. Once you're happy with the adjustment tighten the lock nut while keeping the bolt 20220715_153255.thumb.jpg.e66ac077bfb4436eaf94b0250a6c6d8d.jpgstationary.20220715_153305.thumb.jpg.bb8132472b5366a9581e82bb8e097ef3.jpg

  • Like 2
Posted
2 hours ago, aefron88 said:

I was under the rig playing today so I decided to adjust the parking brake just to make sure it was ok, since I've read a couple people having them adjusted too tight from the factory.

First picture is the parking brake disc & caliper from the passenger side. Second picture is the adjustment bolt.

How it works: it's a cable operated disc brake with a locking pawl to hold it where you push the pedal to.

Procedure: The pad tightness is adjusted by moving the bolt in the 2nd picture in and out. When you tighten it it pushes the pads together. The extra nut on it is a lock nut.

Using a 13mm wrench loosen the lock nut. Back it off about halfway just so it's out of the way. Next tighten the bolt by hand until it stops. From there back it off about a half turn. Push the parking brake and make sure the pedal "locks up" before running out of travel. If it doesn't adjust the bolt slightly tighter and try it again. Once you're happy with the adjustment tighten the lock nut while keeping the bolt 20220715_153255.thumb.jpg.e66ac077bfb4436eaf94b0250a6c6d8d.jpgstationary.20220715_153305.thumb.jpg.bb8132472b5366a9581e82bb8e097ef3.jpg

good stuff thanks ! did you find it tight, or was it ok on yours

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Another little thing I did was lubricate the brake pin at the bottom of the brake assembly. It has a rubber boot covering it. I slid it back with a screw driver and squirted some white lithium grease in it and so far no more squeaking.

  • Like 1
  • 2 months later...
Posted

I didn't have a squealing issue on mine when I did this, it was essentially brand new and only had a couple miles on it.

It was definitely too tight from the factory, and it won't hurt to adjust. It's also quick and easy to do.

Posted

The parking park was fine with mine, but backed it off just a tad anyway. What solved the squeak  was  I was removed the wheels one at a time , turned the soleplate by hand and found that the front left ( drivers side) one squeaked . I loosened and re torqued the  hub nut and sprayed brake cleaner to clean any debris  and the squeal stopped and has not returned. Thanks everyone for their help and input! This pic from Robert B helped

chupacLoose Hub Nut.jpg

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Similar issue on my 2022 Coleman Outfitter 550 where the parking brake was locked up.....parking brake pedal would not automatically release when applying brake.  I had to adjust the tension on the cable release that runs from the brake to the parking brake pedal (located on the other side of the floor panel behind the parking brake).  I then adjusted the parking brake pads per the procedure mentioned previously.  If you can't easily push utv with the parking brake disengaged-you know you have a problem.  By the same token, if you can push the utv with the parking brake engaged-you also have a problem.  

  • 7 months later...
Posted

I have a 2021 UTV400 and when I purchased it recently it made no noise. I get it home and a couple days later I hear the same squeaking as in the video posted by Rob, seemingly coming from the back. Now I hear it all over, as it's getting worse. Looking at all the rotors, brakes and parking brakes, they look like they're grooved, but when feeling them, they are smooth with little to no feeling of any indentation.

At first I thought it was the parking brakes, but when released, I can easily push the UTV, although the e-brake pedal is high with little travel when applied.

Good stuff here, as I will have to check all the brakes and adjust the e-brake. Hopefully I can pinpoint the problem, as I mentioned, it's getting worse.

Posted
On 7/15/2022 at 3:56 PM, aefron88 said:

I was under the rig playing today so I decided to adjust the parking brake just to make sure it was ok, since I've read a couple people having them adjusted too tight from the factory.

First picture is the parking brake disc & caliper from the passenger side. Second picture is the adjustment bolt.

How it works: it's a cable operated disc brake with a locking pawl to hold it where you push the pedal to.

Procedure: The pad tightness is adjusted by moving the bolt in the 2nd picture in and out. When you tighten it it pushes the pads together. The extra nut on it is a lock nut.

Using a 13mm wrench loosen the lock nut. Back it off about halfway just so it's out of the way. Next tighten the bolt by hand until it stops. From there back it off about a half turn. Push the parking brake and make sure the pedal "locks up" before running out of travel. If it doesn't adjust the bolt slightly tighter and try it again. Once you're happy with the adjustment tighten the lock nut while keeping the bolt stationary.

20220715_153305.thumb.jpg.bb8132472b5366a9581e82bb8e097ef3.jpg

Good info, but I'm not sure which bolts in the second picture you are referring to. I think I need to adjust my e-brake because the pedal doesn't travel much at all when applied and I have squeaks that sound like they're from brakes and coming from all over. Need to check them all, but want to start with this. If you can clarify which one of the bolts is the adjuster, I would appreciate it - thank you.

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted
On 10/28/2022 at 6:55 AM, Rob DeVido said:

What solved the squeak  was  I was removed the wheels one at a time , turned the soleplate by hand and found that the front left ( drivers side) one squeaked . I loosened and re torqued the  hub nut and sprayed brake cleaner to clean any debris  and the squeal stopped and has not returned.

I had jacked my rear up and tried spinning my wheels and there was a bit of resistance, as well as the wheels not spinning as they would on a car. Took the wheels off and tried spinning the soleplates and it was really hard to turn. It this normal or could the hub nuts be too tight? On vehicles I've worked on, wheels spin easily, but I know this is a different animal, something I've never worked on. So with that said, should the wheels/soleplates spin freely with many turns?

Posted
4 hours ago, Rainman said:

I had jacked my rear up and tried spinning my wheels and there was a bit of resistance, as well as the wheels not spinning as they would on a car. Took the wheels off and tried spinning the soleplates and it was really hard to turn. It this normal or could the hub nuts be too tight? On vehicles I've worked on, wheels spin easily, but I know this is a different animal, something I've never worked on. So with that said, should the wheels/soleplates spin freely with many turns?

This is all to to me as well, I can't say I know the answer to that, wish I did though. When I turned the soleplate I noticed the squeak. I did like I said and noticed the squeak went away.  At that point I was happy and unfortunately I didn't really pay attention to how freely it spun. I am going to need to do some maintenance here soon as I'm starting to hear the squeak again, its not as bad , but its there. It could be just in need of some cleaning.

  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...
Posted

so just got our ut 400-rt notice it was squicking and felt a drag, also notice if i part on a small hill it will roll either front or back, with  parking break set or release, (there fells no differents between brake on and brake offf, now looking up front  when you press the parking brake you can see the cable move up front but at the drive shaft caliper (were parking brake is it doesnt move any thoughts whats going on with parking brake?

[email protected]

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By SkyPilot56
      working on a coleman 550 out fitter , had a shit load of codes, coil, injector , and the map sensor for fuel injector replaced all 3 and figured it would start , but no joy have spark (new plug also and inline fuel filter) cleared the codes and still have the engine light , turns over fine but damn thing still will not start, friends daughters were driving it and turned it off to park , and went back to start it and same thing turns over but will not start , with this machine anyone have any ideas as to what the hell , I should be looking for , no plug's unplug checked wires none seem to be pulled apart or broken !
    • By Karlibob
      I have a 2020 800 sx with about 16 hours on it.  From day one I have heard a clunking noise from the front end going over bumps.  Has anyone else experienced this?  Also this past weekend while out riding I heard a noise that sounded like the dump bed bounced three or four different times, again has anyone experienced anything like that.  Thanks, gary
    • By Jon Spruill
      Hey Guys, I have been chasing a stalling condition for about two weeks now. The bike will crank up and idle fine, then after about 20 seconds it will fall on its face and stall. It happens at both idle and while running at various rpms. You can turn the key off, turn it back on and it will fire right back up without trouble. I have verified spark on both cylinders with a spark tester. I have also added an inline fuel filter, and pulled the injectors to verify proper pulse on each. Things I have replaced - (relearn procedure performed after each component replaced): spark plugs, ECU, relay/fuse box, fuel pump, & throttle position sensor - all with no improvement of the condition. The only warning light I get when the condition occurs is the oil lamp. The bike only has 14 miles. I am at a loss and appreciate any help and suggestions! Thanks
    • By Homeowner A
      Is there a code reader available for the Coleman UTV 400?  I tried using the HUD ECU Hacker software and cables/adapters but no luck OBD to delphi 6 pin and KKL VAG as well as ELM327.  Will not connect.  I was able to get it to connect randomly a couple of times, but haven't been able to since.  I was able to clear and read the codes briefly.  I'm aware of the Tiny Scan 301 but it doesn't seem to be readily available.  There's a few out there but they are expensive.  
    • By Alien10
      I'm thinking of buying a snow blade for my Coleman Outfitter 550 (Hisun with Coleman stickers).
      Has anyone purchased a snow blade that can offer the make and model they bought and any comments, pros  cons etc.?
      Not 100% sure I'm going to buy, as the selection of blades for this model seems a bit thin on line. 
      Thoughts and comments welcomed.
      Thanks in advance.
×
×
  • Create New...