Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a 2013 Massimo MSU 500 project. I just recently got it running after sitting in pieces for an unknown amount of time. I replaced the wet clutch and drum, the primary clutch and belt, the spark plug, ignition wire, and ignition coil. I cleaned the fuel tank, replaced the fuel lines, fuel and air filters. I adjusted the valve lash and  the throttle cable stroke. Now to the problem. It tops out in high gear at about 4400 rpm at 27 mph. It tops out in low gear at 5200 rpm at 28 mph? It will rev to about 7500 rpm in neutral. I'm guessing I just don't have enough horsepower for some reason. Ideas?

  • Like 1
Posted

No, I picked this thing up for $50. It's the first SXS that I've ever had. Just trying to figure this thing out as I go. No manual or anything. I've got to dig out my compression gauge. It's in this shop... somewhere. lol

IMG_20220716_153410237.jpg

IMG_20220716_153503561_HDR.jpg

Posted

Update: I just ran a wide open throttle compression check and it's 135! According to the stats that I dug up it's supposed to be between 163 and 210. So, that's not good. Also when I removed the spark plug it was chalky black with soot. So I've got something else going on, I'm not sure what yet. Grrrr!

Posted

No, it wouldn't, but I don't think the low compression would cause the spark plug to soot up. That's a definite sign of running too rich. If one of the sensors is sending an erroneous signal to the ECM it could cause it to run rich.

Posted

Well now, that's a good thought. Tomorrow night when I get home I'll redo my compression test and this time I'll add a little oil. If the compression improves, it's rings, if not, it's valves. I new that just didn't think to do it. Thanks!

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Okay, so I'm in the process of rebuilding the top end of this machine and I can't find any timing marks on the cam. No notch, no dot, no painted tooth, nothing. Does anyone know what it's supposed to look like?

 

  • 10 months later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By Greg Kilgore
      Got a 2021 Axis 500.
      I'm needing the head bolt torque specs.
      Manual states 38nm.
      But saw a video Hisun put out on YT for a 550 stating 50nm + 45° turn of wrench. Didn't think they would be that much difference on a 500 and a 550.
      Seen another YT video on a 2013 500. He did 38nm.
      Really only want to do this job once and done. And done correct.
      Anybody got the answer?
      Going to start this rebuild in a few once this weather brakes. Flooding and then snow and cold here now. But spring is around the corner and the wife has to have this fixed or a Honda pioneer may be parked in driveway soon. She has to be able to ride.
       
    • By downseast
      Hi everyone
      Recently purchased a 2020 T-Boss 410 in what appears to be good condition
      First time with this machine – I also have a diesel Kawasaki Mule which so far seems a better machine
      It didn’t start and idle well particularly from cold when I got it and sudden take off ( now solved with new clutch parts ) was all or nothing !
      I have replaced the idle valve, throttle position sensor, had the injector professionally checked ( ok) and also the pressure sensor this is a fuel injection engine, also plug and lead etc!
      It still doesn’t run well and when starting I have to hold revs for a while as it wont idle but stall, thereafter its better and I have rebooted the ecu which has improved it
      When I go to start it clicks as if there is a hydraulic lock and wont return after two or three attempts it then does turn over and start bit I need to give it a bit of throttle to start – is this normal ?
      Is there adjustment for the air idle valve ?
      The engine seems rough and with vibration compared to other engines I have been used to but some say this is normal?
      I haven’t changed the Lambda sensor yet, anyone know how much difference this might make ( I have a new Bosch universal to fit )
      Any advice very much appreciated, thanks
    • By D MAYNARD
      I have an Axis 500 4x4 UTV that I was given.  It looks like an almost new machine with 39 hrs on it however it was apparently under water from the hurricane . I have no spark at the plug. I have replaced the plug, the plug wire, & the stator so far. Can anyone advise me of what i need to check and or replace to get this thing running? Any advise would be greatly appreciated. 
                                    Thank You,
                                  D Maynard 
       
    • By CRV
      I’m need a couple parts. Diff. Lock Actuator mainly. But I would like to find a donor that maybe has bad motor or something along those lines. 
      if anyone has or knows of anything please holler at me 
      thanks Randy 
    • By Prepper
      I'm working with a 2015 MSU-500.  Basic symptoms are it cranks well, but will not fire.  It has spark, and it has fuel spraying out of the injector (and spraying starting fluid into the throttle body and plug hole makes no difference).  It has compression.  I bought it not running, and no other information was available.  It has 775 miles on it and 127 hours.  It looks to be in very good shape.   Previous owner replaced fuel pump, ECU, coil, plug, and the fuse/relay box that mounts on the firewall, then gave up.
      My questions relate to cam/valve timing, considering the symptoms and diagnostics so far.  My thinking was the woodruff key sheared off and the crank spun, making it out of time.  My question is, by the pictures attached does anyone have an opinion as to the cam/valve timing being correct?  In the crankshaft picture you can see a timing mark visible.  In the camshaft picture I have arrows directed towards what I think are timing marks (which appear to be exactly 180 degrees from one another).  However, the long arrow in what appears to be bolt configuration in line with the piston/rod line.  Here is a puzzling note... in the position you see in the pictures... I have valve lash on both the intake and exhaust.  I think it's at TDC, given the visible crank timing mark and valve lash on both valves. 
      Any thoughts ?  Does this appear to be in proper valve time ?  Have I missed anything simple ?  Thanks in advance for your input.


×
×
  • Create New...